These two river-bank snaps from Varanasi are of two of my first encounters with Death and life by Ganga. The second one with dogs and the trident is of the famous cremation ghat: Harishchandra Ghat. Those who die in the neighbourhood (Kedar Khand) are cremated here. I went there for the first time with my dadi’s dead body. The smell of burning human flesh and its first impact on a human nostril can’t be described. Its intense and unforgettable imprint is alive in my mind even today; I was nine then, and am thrity-seven now.